Ashley Woods is a desirable neighborhood where residents take pride in their homes and the external appearance of their properties. To this end, the POA encourages property owners to work diligently to ensure their lawns and garden are healthy and free of weeds and pests.
There is no doubt about it...a thick lawn that is properly cared for and never scalped by mowing is the best defense against weeds because it doesn't allow room for them to grow. Furthermore, it has a better root system to combat heat, cold, drought, mowing, foot traffic and other stresses.
Additionally, the Buncombe County Cooperative Extension Service has a comprehensive Gardeners' Almanac that is available for purchase at their office for $5.00 per copy. For questions or additional information, their phone number is (828) 255-5522.
A FEW BASIC LAWN CARE TIPS
(as referenced in Scotts Beginner Lawn Care Information, 8/2007)
Watering
- Water early in the morning.
- Water deeply and infrequently. A light sprinkling promotes shallow roots, and it may not even reach the soil, depending on how much you water.
Mowing
- Most grasses in Ashley Wood (bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and fescue) may be mowed as low as 1 1/2 inches and as high as 3 inches.
- Never cut off more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blades in a single mowing. It is recommended to mow at the higher setting during the warmer months and at the lower setting in the spring to stimulate new sheath (lower portion of the grass blade) growth and in the fall to help prevent disease from settling in over winter.
- Avoid scalping.
- Keep mower blade sharp.
- Mow in different directions (diagonal, horizontal, vertical patterns) each time you mow to prevent "leaning" of grass blades in your lawn.
- Never mow a wet lawn.
Fertilizing
- Most lawns require 4-5 feedings per year. Basically, the first feeding should coincide with the first mowing; and the last feeding when the grass is done growing for the year. The following is an example of a typical lawn care program.
- Early spring (February to April) — Lawns wake up hungry from the winter months. A spring feeding strengthens roots and gets lawns off to a good start before the heavy growing season. In most regions, it is wise to apply a combination fertilizer with a pre-emergent to control crabgrass.
- Late spring/early summer (May to June) — At this time grass is actively growing and using up nutrients, therefore it is important to supply the lawn with a proper feeding designed for this time of year. Since this also is a time when broadleaf weeds are actively growing, a combination fertilizer with broadleaf weed control is ideal (a "weed and feed").
- Late summer (July to August) — The hot days of summer result in grass that is stressed by heat, drought, foot traffic and insects. An application at this time will help your lawn recover from, and combat, these potential problems. Avoid applying a fertilizer when temperatures are over 90° F.
- Early fall (September to October) — With cool nights, rainfall and morning dew, this is a great time to supply the lawn with the nutrients it needs to recover from and repair summer damage. An early fall feeding is one of the most important of the year, and is even more important if the summer feeding is skipped.
- Late fall/early winter (November to December) — A final feeding before the winter months will strengthen roots and increase nitrogen storage for an early spring green up. At this time of year, roots remain active for just a couple of weeks after the top growth stops — energy reserves that are stored for the following spring.
Aeration/Core Aeration
- Aeration consists of perforating the soil (and any thatch above it) with small holes that remove cores of soil, thatch and grass. This allows water, air and fertilizer to get closer to the grass' roots, which enables them to grow more deeply, producing a more vigorous lawn.
- Aerate in the spring before the first application of fertilizer. If you have a St. Augustine grass lawn, consult a professional about aerating.
- Make sure the soil is moist during aeration—neither too wet nor too dry—so the aerating device can penetrate it fully.
- To aerate a lawn, use a specialized tool to remove plugs from the soil. To be effective, individual holes should be at least ¾ inch in diameter, 3 inches deep, and no more than 3 inches apart. Run the aerator over the lawn several times to make enough holes. (Select the type of aerator that removes a plug of soil. Some aerating tools punch nail-like spikes into the sod without removing plugs. Because this type compresses the soil around the hole, it is less effective that the type that removes plugs.)
- The plugs of soil the machine removes are deposited on the surface of the lawn. Leave the plugs to dry for a day, then break them up with energetic raking or by mowing with a side-chute lawn mower. This creates a thin, beneficial top dressing. If you don’t mind their appearance, you can just leave them to deteriorate in rainfall or irrigation. They will disappear in a couple of weeks.
- An aerated lawn will recover faster if fertilized and watered adequately. Apply fertilizer as soon as possible, and water whenever rainfall fails to supply about one inch of moisture per week. If the lawn is thin, overseeding with a high quality grass seed is recommended.
